If your water heater starts leaking, shut off the gas. You’ll also want to turn off the water flow.
Water that smells or looks discolored may mean a sediment buildup problem. It’s also important to flush the tank regularly. Contact Water Heater Repair Aurora CO now!
If your water heater is nearing the end of its lifespan, replacing it may be more economical than repairing it.
Thermostat
Thermostat malfunctions are often the cause of water heater problems, including faulty heating elements or a failure to produce any hot water at all. The thermostats in an electric hot water heater are inexpensive, readily available at home centers and hardware stores, and easy to replace. However, if the problem is that the water heater produces lukewarm showers or runs out of hot water much faster than it used to, there is a 90 percent chance that one or both of the upper and lower heating elements are bad. This is a dangerous eventuality, and a professional water heater service company should be called immediately to replace the elements.
Before proceeding with any tests, shut off the power supply to the water heater at its circuit breaker. Also, drain the tank to prevent leaks and facilitate access to the thermostats and high-temperature limit switch, which is located on top of the water heater.
To test the temperature sensor in the upper thermostat, remove the metal cover and touch one meter probe to terminal 1, and the other probe to terminal 2. Then turn on the water heater and read the thermocouple reading, which should be near zero ohms of resistance.
If the water heater still does not produce any hot water, you can try to reset the circuit breaker or the high-temperature cutoff switch located above the upper thermostat. These switches will trip if they are overheating or experiencing other electrical problems, so it is worth a shot to see if resetting them will correct the problem.
If resetting the water heater’s circuit breaker and / or high-temperature cutoff switch does not restore hot water production, the next step is to check for a short circuit in the upper thermostat’s wiring. This can be done by measuring continuity through the entire upper thermostat wiring circuit, as described in our video How to Repair a Thermostat. It is important to remember that any time you touch any exposed wiring, you could be shocked by a short circuit caused by a damaged wire or broken electrical part touching metal inside the cabinet.
Element
The upper and lower heating elements on an electric water heater might corrode or break, resulting in reduced heat or no hot water. These components are relatively easy to test and replace as long as you follow safety guidelines for working on the device and have the proper tools. Before you start, make sure the breaker that powers the unit is switched off and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. Also, drain the tank to prevent a water leak from forming.
Begin the repair process by disconnecting one of the element wires from each terminal screw. Then, using a multimeter set to RX1000 (resistance times 1,000), touch one probe to an element mounting bolt and the other to each element terminal screw in turn. If the tester displays infinity, then the element is faulty and needs to be replaced. Before installing the new one, drain the tank and remove the access panel on the top of the heater. Replace the element with one of the same model, size and rating as the old one. Once the new one is installed, restore power to the unit and refill the tank to test for any further problems.
Dip Tube
A water heater’s dip tube is the unsung hero that transports cold water to the tank’s burner. Without this essential component, your hot water supply would likely run out very quickly. As such, it’s important to keep an eye out for warning signs that it’s time to replace your dip tube.
A dip tube’s lifespan can depend on various factors, but on average it may last 10-15 years before needing replacement. Like other parts of your water heater, the dip tube is subject to chemical corrosion and deterioration over time. Certain types of water, such as hard water or elevated acidity levels, can hasten this process. As a result, the dip tube may develop cracks or breaks, which can lead to water leaks and reduced performance.
The first sign of a bad dip tube is usually an inconsistent flow of hot water in your home. Hot water will typically come from your taps in a steady, uninterrupted stream, but over time you may notice intermittent bursts of cold or lukewarm water. This can indicate that the dip tube is beginning to break down or that it has already completely failed.
You can try to fix a broken dip tube by turning off the circuit breaker that delivers power to your water heater, removing the cold water supply valve on the tank and draining it, and then disconnecting the nipple (a short piece of pipe threaded at both ends) from the top of your dip tube inlet. Then, remove the old tube and insert the new one by pushing it down through the inlet and into your water heater tank. Be sure to choose a PEX dip tube, as these are made to withstand the harsh conditions inside your water heater.
Once you’ve installed a new dip tube, reconnect the cold water line and restore power to your hot water heater. Reopen the cold water supply valve and refill the tank with a faucet open on the hot side to release any air. Then, turn on the hot water in your home and make sure that it works properly.
Pressure Valve
Your gas water heater’s pressure valve is a crucial safety device that should be tested and inspected on a regular basis. This is because hot water expands and contracts as it heats up, which can at times put a lot of pressure on the tank. This can lead to the pressure valve, referred to as the T&P (temperature and pressure) valve, failing to open when it should. This can lead to the leaking of water from the T&P valve, and can be a significant hazard.
Water gushing from the pressure valve is a sign that it’s faulty and needs to be replaced. Likewise, screeching or whistling sounds from the T&P valve can indicate sediment buildup in the tank. Both of these problems should be addressed by a professional.
The T&P valve is located on the top or side of the water heater, and it has a discharge tube that extends down to about six inches above the floor. When the T&P valve is activated, it releases the water in a controlled manner to lower the temperature and pressure of the tank.
When the valve is working properly, it will only open when the pressure in the tank rises above a preset threshold, usually 150 psi or more. As the pressure falls below the threshold, the spring force will retract and close the valve to prevent further fluid leakage.
To test the pressure valve:
- Shut down the power and gas to the water heater.
- Remove the discharge pipe and position a bucket or other vessel below it.
- Carefully lift the valve lever, but don’t apply too much force to it. If the lever opens, you’ll notice water pouring out of the tube and into your bucket.
If the lever remains closed, the relief valve is failing to work and should be replaced.
The T&P valve is a critical safety feature that should be checked and replaced on a regular basis. If you suspect it’s faulty, contact the Whipple Service Champions to diagnose and repair your water heater. They’ll charge a flat service fee, which includes diagnostics and basic fixes like part replacements.